How to Plant and Grow Grass Seed in 9 Steps

Whether filling in bare patches or starting fresh on a new lawn, success lies in the right techniques. Learn how to plant and grow them in 9 steps, from soil preparation to gently watering afterward.

Sowing grass seed is a lot like baking bread – you need a good recipe, quality ingredients, precise measurements, proper timing, and some patience to see it rise.  

When is the best time to plant and grow seeds? Spring or early fall are usually your best bets, but it can depend on where you live. Here’s a step-by-step recipe for seeding your lawn. Our guide also includes tips and tricks for keeping your newly seeded yard healthy.

How to Plant Grass Seed For a New Lawn

Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Materials

Always have the right tools at hand to make your lawn seeding project easier. You’ll need a few basic gardening essentials: 

• Shovel and wheelbarrow to remove old grass
• Garden rake or leveling rake
• Soil amendments (if necessary)
• Core aerator (optional)
• Lawn roller 
• Soil kit
• Grass seed (choose a variety suitable for your climate)
• Seed spreader
• Hose or sprinkler to water your grass seed
• Starter fertilizer
• Your lawn mower (once your grass is tall enough to mow)

Step 2: Choose the Best Grass Seed for Your Region

Choosing the right grass seed is far from a one-size-fits-all process. You have to factor in several factors, including:

• Climate; 
• Soil type; 
• Water availability;
• How you intend to use your yard. 

To take out the guesswork, consult with your local seed specialist or agricultural supplier for optimal seed choice. They know your area’s microclimates and can guide you to the best type of grass for your specific lawn.

Here is a starting point for proper seed selection: 

• Best Grass Seed to Plant in Northern States: Cool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue, are your best bet. They prefer air temperatures of 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. (Here’s our guide on Growing Cool-Season Grasses)
• Best Grass Seed to Plant in the Southern States: Go with warm-season grasses, like bahiagrass or bermudagrass, that flourish in high temperatures between 80 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. (Here’s our guide on Growing Warm-Season Grasses)
• Best Grasses for the Transition Zone States: This region is a blend of temperature highs and lows, humidity, summer deluges, and drought.  For this reason, it’s often challenging to decide which grass types work best. You may need a blend of cool and warm-season grasses, or choose one that can form deep roots and resist drought.

Pro Tips:

• Opt for grass like Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, or zoysia. They’re good at dealing with both hot and cold conditions.
• Some homeowners overseed their warm-season lawns in the fall with cool-season grass like rye to ensure a green color during winter when warm-season species go dormant. (Here is our Guide to Growing Grass in the Transition Zone)

• When choosing the grass seed, look for the weed seed percentage and choose the ones with less than 0.5 percent. You can find this info on the package label, along with the grass variety, purity, and germination percentage.
• Measure your lawn area in square feet, and purchase enough seed to cover that area. Usually, seed bags are marked as the number of pounds needed per 1,000 square feet. If possible, buy a little more than needed in case you want to reseed some bare spots.

Step 3: Find the Best Time to Plant Grass Seed

Your next task is to determine the perfect time for prepping your soil and planting those seeds. Aim to work the soil just before planting so the seedbed has good tilth and the right conditions for seeds to take root. 

How do you know when it’s the best time to plant grass seed? Well, that depends on the variety of grass and your location:

• Cool-season grasses: Planting grass seeds in early fall, between mid-August to mid-October is the preferred option for cool-season turf. The soil is warm enough to support seed germination, and there’s plenty of moisture and sunlight to help new plants establish strong roots until winter.

The second best time of the year to sow cool-season grasses is in the spring when the soil starts to warm up. Wait until soil temperatures range between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s when cool-season grasses germinate and have their best root growth.

• Warm-season grasses: In the South, warm-season grasses are better planted between late spring and early summer, think May to early June, when their growing season is starting. Wait until the last chance of a late frost has passed and the daytime temperature is in the 80s.

Pro Tips: 

• Don’t Plant Seeds in the Middle of Summer –  the heat can stress new grass plants. 
• Watch the Local Weather – heavy rain can wash away newly planted seeds, but a gentle shower is great for keeping them moist and starting germination. 

Step 4: Remove the Old Grass and Weeds

To give your new grass seeds the best shot at thriving, clear out any existing weeds and old grass that may compete for sunlight, water, and nutrients. You can start this cleanup process by raking out and disposing of all debris, including:

• Fallen leaves; 
• Twigs;
• Branches;
• Rocks or stones.

Now that your yard is clutter-free, you must step up to the next challenge: removing weeds and grass. Believe it or not, weeding is one stage you want to take seriously – skipping it could leave your lawn vulnerable. Here is how to do it properly:

• Manual Removal: A good old-fashioned shovel might be all you need for smaller spaces or sparse vegetation. Dig about 2 inches below the surface to remove roots and prevent regrowth. 
• Sod Cutter: For larger areas, renting a sod cutter saves you time and effort. This handy machine slices underneath the turf, cutting it into strips for easy removal. (Here is our guide on How to Use a Sod Cutter)
• Herbicides: If you’re dealing with stubborn perennial weeds or large vegetation, consider using a nonselective broad-spectrum post-emergent herbicide. Follow label instructions carefully, and don’t spray on a windy day. Wait about a week, then rake the dead grass. 

(Check out our product review, Top 8 Post-Emergent Herbicides, to learn more about the best products for your needs.)

*Word of Caution: Wait about a month until seeding the grass or as much as the product label recommends. Herbicides left in the soil can prevent germination and damage new grass. 

Clearing out old grass and weeds can leave a lot of mess behind. Collect all the leftover bits of plant material waste into the wheelbarrow, then take it to your compost heap or recycling bin.

Step 5: Test the Soil

Send off some soil samples for testing – just like going for an annual check-up. At the very least, test your soil pH to understand its acidity or alkalinity levels. A simple moisture and pH tester can be found for about $10. If you want to go a step further, invest a few more bucks for a kit that tests the key soil nutrients:

• Nitrogen (N), 
• Phosphorus (P), 
• (Potash) K: 

Comprehensive tests that cover major and minor nutrients are the best. You could use either private labs or your state extension service for this job. Bonus tip: generally Extension Office isn’t just great on price but also delivers personalized advice that labs can’t match. 

*Note: Test the soil as soon as you can. There can be a wait of up to two weeks for lab test results, and you could miss your ideal window for planting grass seeds. (Check out our article titled Why, When, and How to Test the Soil pH of Your Lawn) 

Step 6: Prepare the Soil

Welcome to the soil prep stage. Think of your soil as the bed where your grass seeds will snuggle in. The healthier your soil, the better your grass will grow. Quite a responsibility, isn’t it? So, take your time to prepare the seed bed properly.

To prepare the soil, you’ll need to level the ground and add soil amendments.

Step 7: Plant Your Grass Seed

With the prep work finished and the right seed in hand, you’re ready to sow your dream lawn. Planting grass seed should be done evenly and at the right rate. Most grass seed labels direct you to use somewhere between 15 to 20 seeds per square inch of soil. 

Overdoing it can leave your new turf fighting for sunlight, water, and nutrients, while underdoing it leaves you with thin, patchy grass. So, make sure to follow the instructions on the seed bag on how to seed your lawn.

Depending on the size of your lawn, you can spread the grass seed using:

• Hand: For small patches or light overseeding, hand-seeding your lawn is fine. 
• Drop Spreader: If you have a medium-sized yard (under 5,000) or are trying specific spots, a drop spreader evenly distributes an exact amount of seeds in straight lines – something DIY newbies might find helpful.
• Rotary Spreader: A rotary (broadcast spreader) casts seeds out in a broad arc. It’s ideal for larger lawn areas and capable of delivering greater coverage than a spreader.

*Note: If the seeder’s lowest setting seems too generous with the seed, thin it out with sand or vermiculite. 

The key to success: uniform coverage. Follow a pattern to make sure you don’t under or overseed any areas and overlap your rows only slightly. Here’s how:

1. Fill the push spreader with half the amount of seed.
2. Start from the furthest spot on your lawn, working towards your exit so you don’t trample on the sown seeds.
3. Spread the first half of the recommended seed on the soil surface, moving north to south.
4. On the second pass, spread the remaining half of your seed, moving east to west.
5. Rake the top one-eighth inch of the seeded surface lightly. Using the back of a garden rake side-to-side makes this an easy job.
6. If you have access to one, roll an empty lawn roller to improve germination.

Step 8: Apply a Starter Fertilizer

After following the steps to plant grass seed, you need to find out if your state restricts the use of starter fertilizers containing phosphorus. Most laws allow limited application of phosphorus on new lawns to help new grass grow, but turf experts say to let your soil test be your guide.

If the test says your soil lacks phosphorus, then it’s acceptable. If not, look for a fertilizer with zero phosphorus to spread over the seeded area.

When to apply the starter fertilizer:

• Option 1: Some professionals prefer to apply it before seeding and mix it in when preparing the soil and raking it.
• Option 2: Others advise applying it immediately after seeding but before watering for the first time.

*Note: Regardless of when you choose to apply, be sure to water gently after so that the fertilizer makes good contact with the soil. Want to know more about starter fertilizer? Check out our article, 9 FAQs About Applying Starter Fertilizer to Your Lawn.

Step 9: Water Your Grass Appropriately

Keep a careful eye on your new grass seeds. They only get one chance to spring into life, and you’re in charge. Watering takes planning, precision, and practice. Water too much or too little, and you might kill those baby blades before they’ve sprung to life.   

How often you water the grass seeds changes as the seeds sprout, so adjust your schedule accordingly. Here’s how to get it right:

• Initial Watering: Moisten the soil right after planting or fertilizing, but don’t flood it. Over-saturating can cause seeds to float or rot without having a chance to grow roots.
• Continue Watering: For the first week or two, lightly water twice daily to keep the top inch of soil consistently moist but not swampy. 
• Monitor Growth: Once the grass sprouts, reduce the watering frequency to once a day. After a few weeks, when your grass is about an inch and has been mowed at least once, start training it for deeper roots by watering deeply (about one inch deep, including rainfall) every other day.

Pro Tips:

• Generally, the best time to water is early in the morning before temperatures rise so that there’s less loss due to evaporation. 
• A misting attachment on your hose can cut down on the amount of force you use. Part of your lawn may be shadier, part may have more porous soil, or part may be sloped. Adjust your watering according to your lawn’s needs.
• Remember that even if you planted just one turfgrass variety, the grass seeds won’t all pop up at once. Some will be buried a bit deeper or have a different rate of water absorption. Stay with your watering regimen until you’re sure the seeds have germinated.
• Keep foot traffic to a minimum. You could consider putting up “Please keep off the new grass” signs to discourage accidental trampling by your kids and neighbors (and their dogs).

How to Overseed an Existing Lawn

If your lawn looks pretty healthy but less dense than you’d like, there’s a handy solution for you – overseeding. All this means sprinkling a little extra grass seeds directly on top of your existing turf. 

The best bit is that it provides a quick fix to help improve your lawn without giving yourself the headache of having to dig everything up and start all over again.

*Note: Overseeding once a year is best for lawn health. 

Just like when planting an entirely new lawn, sprinkling new grass seeds on top requires certain steps for the best outcomes, including:

• Select the Right Seeds: Choose grass seeds compatible with your existing grass type and suitable for your region’s climate.
• Mow Short: Mow grass to the shorter end of its recommended mowing range (without removing more than one-third of its height in a single mow). A short height encourages seeds to have direct contact with the soil. 
• Clear Dead Grass and Debris: Remove any weeds or thatch, as well as fallen leaves and other debris from your lawn. 
• Apply Soil Amendments: Topsoil or compost can improve soil quality and provide a fertile environment for new seeds. 
• Spread the Grass Seed Evenly: Use a spreader for larger areas or hand sow in smaller sections ensuring even coverage. 
• Water Frequently: Water thoroughly after spreading the seed and continue to keep the soil moist until new grass sprouts. 

Check out our comprehensive guide on How to Overseed a Lawn in 8 Simple Steps. This detailed resource will provide you with more in-depth instructions, tips, and tricks to ensure your lawn reaches its full potential. 

How to Grow the Grass After Planting

After you’ve planted your grass seed, the real test of patience begins. Grass seed germination can take anywhere from 5 to 30 days, depending on the variety and climate conditions. During this time, it’s important to continue providing optimal care. 

Start Mowing at the Right Time

Hooray! Your newly seeded lawn is green, and the grass is growing well. Wait until your grass reaches about 3 to 4 inches of height before giving it the first mow. Here are a few tips for growing grass to ensure you do the first mow in the right way:

• Sharpen the mower’s blade so you cut, not tear, the tender plants. 
• Start the lawn mower off the grass and minimize the number of turns you make with the mower. 
• Don’t remove more than a third of the grass blade in one mow.

Watering After The First Mow

After the first mow, cut back on frequent shallow watering and switch to a normal watering routine. Instead of watering lightly twice a day, it’s time to transition to deeper, less frequent watering.

Aim for about an inch of water per week, whether that comes from rainfall or your irrigation system.   

Weed Control on New Planted Lawns

Weed killers can easily damage young grass. Don’t use chemical herbicides until your grass is well-established. Wait until you mow the new turf at least four times. In the meantime, hand-pull any weeds you find so they don’t smother your young grass.

Fertilizing After Initial Growth

Your new grass (from seeds) will benefit from regular fertilization after it has been established. About 4 to 8 weeks after the seeds have germinated, apply a high-quality lawn fertilizer that has a higher ratio of nitrogen.  

Follow the instructions on the fertilizer bag for how much to apply. After application, water your lawn thoroughly to help move the nutrients into the soil.

*Note: Never fertilize a lawn that’s stressed or suffering from drought. You might end up burning or damaging the grass further. (Here is our Quick Guide to Lawn Fertilization)

By following these tips on how to make your grass grow, after eight weeks, your lawn should be well-established. Take down your “Please keep off the new grass” signs because your new lawn is ready for fun.

FAQ About Planting Grass Seeds

How cold is too cold to plant grass seed?

If the soil drops below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it’s not great for your seed. Below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, they might just stay asleep. For best results, time grass seeding so the seeds have at least 6 to 8 weeks of warm soil temperatures to germinate and establish before the first frost arrives. 

Does grass seed need to be covered?

Grass seeds do need some light to germinate, so burying them too deep under topsoil can inhibit growth. However, a very thin layer of topsoil (one-quarter inch or less) over the seeds is actually beneficial to retain moisture and improve germination. To protect the seed from birds and washing away, use a straw (weed-free) or an erosion-control blanket.

Do you plant grass seed on top or under soil?

Grass seeds should be planted at the recommended depth stated on the packaging, which can vary depending on the type of grass. A general rule is that seeds should be sown no deeper than one-quarter  to one-half inch deep into the soil. 

Pro tip: To do this, scatter the seeds evenly over your prepared soil and then gently rake over them to incorporate them into the top layer of soil. Remember, some seeds will end up on top, but many will be just beneath the soil surface where they are protected and can absorb necessary moisture and nutrients.  

When to Call a Lawn Care Pro

Planting a new lawn isn’t an overnight task. It requires proper planning, patience, and a thorough understanding of your soil’s needs. From selecting the right grass seeds to timing your planting and carefully watering, every step is essential in ensuring the success of your new lawn.  

Your new lawn will be ready for its first mow once it reaches 3 to 4 inches tall. Give your turf expert care by hiring a local lawn care professional to handle the first mow.

Main Photo Credit: Adobe Stock