How to Mow a Lawn the Right Way

Lawnmower

How you mow the lawn has a direct impact on the turf’s health and appearance. To enjoy a vibrant, thick lawn, always follow these rules: Use a mower with a sharp blade, don’t cut more than one-third of the grass blade, and choose a different mowing pattern every time.

I know, these are the basics. There are many tips and tricks to make mowing easier, faster, and more effective for your turfgrass. That’s why we’ll discuss all the important factors to consider for when and how to mow a lawn, from the type of grass and landscape to season and type of mower.

Project difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate
Estimated time to complete: 0.5 to 1.5 hours for a 1/2-acre lawn, depending on the mower
Project cost: $260 to $300 (low-end price for a push mower, string trimmer, leaf blower, safety glasses, and earmuffs to get you started)

Why Proper Mowing Matters

Mowing is like a lawn treatment you apply every week, so it’s important to cut the grass correctly if you want a lush, gorgeous lawn year-round. How you mow your lawn impacts the depth of the grass roots, the turf’s ability to feed and absorb water, its resilience to drought, pests, and diseases, and how well it can keep invasive weeds at bay.

Lawn problems like brown spots, thinned turf, and a tan tint can have multiple causes. But if the lawn doesn’t look right, it’s always a good idea to start by checking your mower and mowing routine — you might be missing some steps. 

Note: If you don’t want to worry about storing and maintaining lawn care equipment, and having mowing tasks take up your weekends, hire a lawn care professional

Choose the Right Mowing Equipment

Do you own the right mower for your lawn? Yes, I know — you can basically cut the lawn with any mower with sharp blades, but a model that suits your lawn size and landscape will make your work much easier. 

Here’s an overview of the most common types of mowers homeowners use and the types of lawns they suit the best.

Reel Mowers

manual lawn mower in grass
Photo Credit: rseigler0 / Pixabay

Standard reel mowers are manual mowing tools powered by your effort. They are eco-friendly, compact, and quiet, with a smaller cutting width and adjustable blades.

Average cost: $85 to $310
Best for: Small, level lawns under 1/4 acre
How to use it: Push the reel mower at a brisk, even pace to create a steady forward motion — it’s how you get a clean, uniform cut.

See Related: Best Reel Lawn Mowers

Self-Propelled Push Mowers

A self-propelled lawn mower has a drive system that allows it to move independently, so you only need to steer it across the lawn. 

Average cost: $108 to $836
Best for: Lawns under 1/2 acre with flat, uneven, or hilly terrain. Front-wheel drive models are easier to turn, but rear-wheel drive models are easier for uneven or hilly terrain.
How to use it:

  • Start mowing at a lower speed on patches with tall, thick grass to allow the blade time to cut the grass. 
  • Increase the speed when you’re satisfied with how the mower behaves.

See Related: 

Riding Mowers

riding lawn mower in a lawn
Photo Credit: Pexels

A riding mower has a comfortable seat that you sit on while driving it. It is larger than a push mower, requires more storage space, and struggles to mow into corners and tight spots.

Average cost: $1,108 to $4,755
Best for: Large lawns, over 1/2 acre, without many obstacles or tight spaces
How to use it: 

  • Control the speed with the drive pedal, the brake pedal, and the shift lever. 
  • Put in low gear and use the wheel to steer the mower. 
  • Once you reach the lawn, lower the blades (pull the blade engagement knob or flip the lever) and start to mow. 
  • Raise the blades before getting off the lawn.

See Related: Best Riding Lawn Mowers [Reviews]

Zero-Turn Mowers

Zero-turn mowers are riding mowers that can make really tight turns — almost in place — like a shopping cart. This makes them ideal for lawns with trees, flower beds, tight spots, and hills.

Average cost: $2,750 to $9,912
Best for: Large lawns, over 1/2 acre, with hills, corners or obstacles
How to use it: Instead of a wheel, it has two levers for steering. Each lever controls a back wheel. When you push the lever forward, the mower turns the other way.

See Related: Best Zero-Turn Lawn Mowers [Reviews]

Robot Mowers

robot lawn mower on a green lawn
Photo Credit: Rawpixel

Robot mowers have rechargeable batteries and a charging station that you connect to a power outlet. The robot mows the lawn wherever you need it to and then returns to its charging station to recharge.

Average cost: $665 to $17,042
Best for: Small lawns of less than 1/2 acre, but larger, more expensive models can handle lawns up to 2 acres
How to use it: 

  • Set up mowing boundaries. 
  • Schedule mowing sessions and specify the mowing height.
  • The mower is ready to go — enjoy your free time.

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Prepare the Lawn

lawn mower in the garden
Photo Credit: irontrybex / Adobe Stock Free / License

Always start by cleaning the lawn. Loose rocks, toys, twigs, and other debris can make simple mowing a hassle. How? This hidden debris can damage the mower blade from the start and leave behind rugged and uneven grass blades. 

Rocks and twigs can also fly straight into a window or car or injure a neighbor or family member who is passing by. Therefore, keep pets and children away from the lawn while you mow.

My Tip: I wear garden gloves when removing yard debris. You never know what you’ll find in tall grass.

See Related: How Much Does Yard Cleanup Cost?

Mow to the Proper Height

The proper mowing height varies, depending on the grass species, season, and whom you’re asking, but there’s one rule you can always count on — the one-third rule: Never remove over one-third of your grass during any lawn mowing session. 

The One-Third Rule

One third rule illustration
Photo Credit: Juan Rodriguez

Why is this important? Cutting more than one-third of the blade reduces the surface available for photosynthesis and increases the grass’s vulnerability to diseases, pests, drought, etc.

How do you apply the one-third rule? Instead of cutting back a 4-inch-tall lawn to your grass type’s ideal height of 2 inches in one go (50% in one cut — known as scalping the lawn) do this:

  1. Lower the grass to 2.75 inches by cutting 1.25 inches (roughly a third of 4 inches).
  2. Give the grass two to four days to recover.
  3. Mow again, this time cutting 0.75 inch to get the grass at your favorite 2-inch height.

Mowing Height by Turf Type

Certain turf types, like Kentucky bluegrass and St. Augustine, thrive when kept tall. In contrast, others, such as bentgrass and Zoysiagrass, prefer to be mowed nearly to the ground.

Refer to the table below to find the ideal mowing height for your specific type of grass.

Recommended Mowing Height by Grass Type
Grass speciesRecommended mow height (inches)Mow when it reaches this height (inches)
Annual ryegrass1.5 – 22.25 – 3
Bahiagrass3 – 44.5 – 5.75
Bermudagrass (seeded)1 – 1.51.5 – 2.25
Buffalograss1 – 21.5 – 3
Centipedegrass23
Creeping bentgrass0.5 inch or less0.75 inch or less
Fine Fescues1.5 – 2.52.25 – 3.75
Hybrid Bermuda0.5 – 10.75 – 1.5
Kentucky bluegrass2-33-4.5
Perennial ryegrass1.5 – 2.52.25 – 3.75
St. Augustinegrass2.5 – 33.75 – 4.5
Tall fescue1.5 – 32.5 – 4
Zoysiagrass0.5 – 10.75 – 1.5
Sources: University of California-Davis Integrated Pest Management program, University of Georgia-Augusta Richmond County Extension

Here’s how to adjust the mower blade height and get an accurate cutting height every time.

  • Get out a tape measure and park your mower on a hard, even surface.
  • Measure the grass from that surface up to the top of the blade. 
  • Most lawn mowers adjust the height of the deck with levers on the wheels (push mowers) or on the side by the seat (riding mowers).

Trim the Lawn Edges with a String Trimmer

Have you noticed some yards are so strikingly beautiful that it’s hard to look away? I’m telling you, that kind of magic is all about details. For lawns, it’s the neat edges, so don’t skip this step if you want a gorgeous, polished lawn.

Note: Some homeowners and lawn care pros prefer to do the edging before mowing. Choose the strategy that works best for you.

Use the string trimmer to trim any tall grass and weeds the mower missed along the lawn’s edge so it’s neat and clean. Cut carefully around the mailbox, patio, tool shed, and along the driveways, walkways, fence line, the sides of your house, landscape curbing, pool screen, etc. 

If necessary, also edge the lawn (recommended at least once a month during the growing season). 

Here’s how to edge your lawn with a string trimmer:

  • Flip the string trimmer head to a vertical position (deflector shield facing you).
  • With the trimming line grazing the surface at a 90-degree angle, guide the trimmer along the lawn’s edge. 

Pro Tip: The string trimmer is great for cutting grass and maintaining a neat edge, but a lawn edger is better for creating the edge. It has a metal disc and is more precise. If you own or decide to buy one, read our guide on How to Edge a Lawn in 8 Simple Steps to learn how pros use this tool.

Best Time to Mow

The best time to mow your lawn is in the morning, before 10 a.m., but other factors come into play as well. Here’s how to adjust your mowing schedule by time of day, weather, and season.

Time of Day

Best Times of the Day to MowWorst times of the Day to Mow
– Mid-morning, between 8 a.m. and 10 a.m.
– Between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m.
– Between 6 a.m. and 8 a.m.
– Midday and early afternoon
– Evening after 6 p.m.

What’s wrong with early morning? Early in the morning, there’s still dew on the grass. The wet dew can cause clumps of wet grass to clog the mower and exposes the freshly cut blades to fungal infestations.

In addition, avoid cutting grass at midday — it’s just too hot — and in the evening after 6 p.m. when the grass will not have time to recover before nightfall.

Weather Conditions

The ideal weather conditions for mowing are similar to what you’d love for a Sunday barbeque: a dry day, with a moderate temperature (60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit), little to no wind, and a few white clouds in the sky to soften the intense sunlight during summer. 

Mowing the lawn right after it rains is not a good idea. Cutting wet grass is a main cause of fungal diseases, and driving the lawn mower on damp soil can easily lead to compaction. Wet grass also clumps on your lawn and can get stuck in the mower deck, jamming your mower. Give your lawn a few hours or days to dry before cutting it.

Don’t mow during drought or high heat. The turf is already stressed and suffering; there’s no need to cause more damage. Be patient. Irrigate the lawn and start mowing when it recovers and the weather cools.

Avoid mowing on windy days. Strong wind can blow grass clippings everywhere. It also makes it hard to maintain a consistent mowing pattern and height.

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Time of Year

Grass behaves differently across the seasons, and you must adapt to keep it thriving. How and when you mow also depends on whether you have warm-season or cool-season grasses on your lawn. 

Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine) are heat-loving species that thrive in temperatures from 75-90 degrees F and grow best in the southern United States. They have their peak growth during summer and go dormant during winter.

Cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, fescues, ryegrass), on the other hand, grow fastest in 60-75 degrees F conditions and thrive in the northern states. They have two peak seasons, spring and fall, and go dormant or semi-dormant in summer and winter. 

Here is a basic lawn mowing calendar to keep in mind for these two turf categories:

Cool Season Growth
Photo Credit: Juan Rodriguez

Mowing cool-season (Northern) grasses across the year:

  • Spring: Start mowing the lawn in spring when it reaches 3 to 4 inches tall. In early spring, when cool-season grasses have their spring growth spurt, increase your mowing frequency. Expect to mow once every 6 to 7 days at this time.
  • Summer: Reduce mowing frequency and raise mowing height.
  • Fall: Increase mowing frequency to once every 5 to 7 days — it’s their best growing season. Gradually lower mowing height to 2.5-3 inches until the last mow of the season. Stop mowing the lawn before winter when the grass growth slows significantly in late fall (temperatures fall below 50-55 degrees F) but no later than one week before the expected first frost date.
  • Winter: Don’t mow dormant grass.
Warm Season Growth
Photo Credit: Juan Rodriguez

Mowing warm-season (Southern) grasses across the year:

  • Spring: Start mowing the grass when it is about 3 inches tall. Increase mowing frequency in late spring if necessary.
  • Summer: It’s the warm-season grasses’ peak growth period — mow every 5 to 7 days.
  • Fall: Reduce mowing frequency. Mow the last time before temperatures consistently  drop below 55 degrees F. 
  • Winter: Don’t mow if the lawn is dormant.

Note: If you live in a subtropical climate, like South Florida, where grass can keep growing year-round, you might also need to mow during the winter.

When to Mow a New Lawn

Here are the essential tips on when to mow new lawns:

  • If you establish the lawn by seeding, wait until the grass is one-third taller than the recommended mowing height for your grass type. This takes four to eight weeks and allows the grass to develop deep roots and healthy blades before the first mow. 
  • If you install sod, the University of California says to wait two to three weeks before mowing to allow the roots to establish. 

Plugs, sprigs, and stolons establish roots slower. If you used any of these to patch bare spots, wait three to six weeks before the next lawn cutting.

When to Mow After Lawn Treatments

Mowing can interfere with lawn treatments and repairs. Follow these mowing tips to protect your work and get the best results: 

  • Fertilizer application: Wait 24 to 48 hours between a fertilizer application and the next mow to ensure the fertilizer is properly absorbed.  
  • Weed killer: Iowa State University Extension says to wait three to four days between Applying Post-Emergent Herbicides to Your Lawn and trimming the turf. This allows the broadleaf weeds time to absorb the herbicide and send it to their roots before you cut the sprayed leaves and stems.
  • Insecticide application: Mississippi State University Extension recommends holding off on mowing and irrigation for at least 24 hours after an insecticide application.
  • Overseeding: Mow overseeded lawns two to four weeks after seeding, when the new grass is 3 to 4 inches tall.

Pro Tip: Always read the label on the fertilizer, weed killer, or insecticide package to determine exact waiting times.

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Proper Lawn Mowing Techniques

Change Mowing Pattern

If you drive the mower the same route week after week, you’ll start seeing ruts in your lawn. To keep the turf looking nice and even, change the mowing pattern every week. Here’s a picture with easy-to-try options. 

Mowing Patterns
Photo Credit: Juan Rodriguez

I think you’ll enjoy a tip that helps you save time. Here it is: According to David’s Lawn Mowing Efficiency Hierarchy, the fastest mowing patterns (fewest turns) are:

Spiral: Start from the edge of the lawn and spiral into the middle.
• Long stripes: Follow the long edge back and forth with a U-turn between stripes. 

Overlap Mowed Stripes

Overlapping the turf stripes by about 10% is a proven method for achieving a perfectly manicured lawn. For example, if you have a push mower that’s about 20 inches wide, overlap the mowed strips by 2 inches — roughly the length of a matchstick.

Go the Right Speed

According to experts at Kansas State University, a safe mowing speed is 3 to 5 mph. “This will cut the grass cleanly and thoroughly,” say the experts.

Of course, the speed depends on the type of mower and the slope of your lawn. If you’re driving a riding mower, 4 to 5 mph is fine, but it can be too fast with a push mower. When walking behind the mower, a safe, comfortable speed is 2 to 3 mph — a brisk walk.

How to Mow on Slopes

A good rule of thumb is not to use a riding mower on a slope that’s greater than 15-20 degrees. If the hill is short and steep, use a push mower or leave it to a professional.

The safest mowing strategy depends on the mower type:

  • With a riding mower, go straight up and down the slope. These models can easily tip over if you mow side to side. Try not to stop, start, or turn when on the slope, as you run a higher risk of tipping over.
  • With a push mower, mow side to side. It gives you better control and a lower risk of getting the mower to slip toward you. Wear cleats — you’ll slip less on the grass.

Also, keep these safety tips in mind:

  • Mow slower than you would a level lawn to control the mower better.
  • Mow only when the hill is dry.
  • Consider a string trimmer for difficult areas.
  • Zero-turn mowers work better on slopes than regular riding mowers.

How to Mow Around Obstacles

Stay a few inches away from flower beds, patios, water fountains, sheds and other solid structures when mowing. Instead, use a string trimmer or an edger to cut the grass in these areas.

Leave at least 1 foot of unmowed space around trees to avoid damaging their trunks and surface roots. You can cause what is called “mower blight,” an injury that can compromise the tree’s health. It’s best to install mulch or gravel around the trees to keep the area mower-free.

How to Make Stripes on the Lawn

If you like the striped baseball field-like look, here’s some good news: You can give stripes to your lawn, and it’s so easy: If you can mow, you can stripe your lawn. 

Some people mow and stripe at the same time, but you’ll achieve a cleaner cut if you mow the grass first and then stripe the lawn. To stripe the turf after mowing:

  • Connect a lawn striping kit to the back of the lawn mower.
  • Drive the mower back and forth in straight, parallel lines.
  • Do two or three passes if you have warm-season grass; they’re a bit more wiry and harder to bend.

Pro Tip: Mow the grass a bit taller — you’ll get better stripes.

Learn more from our guide on how to stripe the lawn.

Bag or Mulch Grass Clippings

wheelbarrow filled with grass clippings
Photo Credit: Ivan Radic / Flickr / CC BY 2.0

According to the University of Missouri Extension, grass clippings have an NPK ratio of 4-2-1, and when added back to the lawn, they can supply “up to 25% of your lawn’s total fertilizer needs.” 

So, unless your lawn has a fungal or pest issue, or is very tall and thick, it’s usually better (and cheaper) to mulch the clippings rather than bag them.  

Pro Tip: If you cut a tall lawn, use a mulching mower. It has a special blade and chops the grass into fine pieces, speeding decomposition. 

See Related: Mulching vs. Side Discharge: The Best Way to Deal with Grass Clippings

Blow Clippings from Driveways, Walkways, and Flower Beds

Mowing and edging can push grass clippings into flower beds and walkways. The easiest way to clean up this mess is with a leaf blower. Here are some tips to speed up the process:

  • In flower beds, direct the air flow into a circular pattern (clockwise or counterclockwise). Blow lightly where you have mulch or gravel to avoid removing it.
  • On driveways, sweep the blower from side to side to clear the clippings from the lawn edge and push them in front of you and into your lawn (not on the street — they’ll end up right back in your driveway when cars pass). 

See Related: How to Use a Leaf Blower (Step-by-Step Guide)

Eco-Friendly Mowing Practices

You mean, besides transitioning to an electric mower? Yes, there’s more you can do to protect the environment. Here’s how to mow the lawn in an eco-friendly way:

  • Mow the lawn tall (close to the maximum recommended height for your grass type). Tall grass traps more carbon, supports biodiversity, and requires less water because it has deeper roots.
  • Cut the grass mid-morning and late afternoon to reduce water loss and the risk of diseases (fewer fungicides).
  • Keep the mower blades sharp to reduce electricity or fuel consumption.

See Related: A Guide to Eco-Friendly Lawn Care

Safety and Equipment Maintenance

When mowing, wear robust footwear that covers your feet (no open-toed shoes during summer), safety goggles, hearing protection, and work gloves. Avoid baggy trousers that might get caught in the mower blades. 

Also, turn off the mower when you cross over areas with no grass (walkways, mulched areas) and be careful on sloped and uneven surfaces.

In between mowings, take care of your tools. Like any other equipment, mowers require regular check-ups, cleaning, and repairs to stay in good condition. Here’s a brief seasonal maintenance checklist to keep your mower in top shape:

Early Spring Maintenance (Start of Season)
Clean or replace the air filter
Check or replace belts
Change oil and refuel
Sharpen mower blades
Check batteries (if electric)
Check tires
Change the spark plug
Spring, Summer, and Early Fall MaintenanceLate Fall Maintenance (Winterization) 
Clean the mower deck (weekly)
Monitor oil level
Check tire pressure
Lubricate the moving parts
Check and sharpen blades 
Clean the mower thoroughly
Drain the gas
Remove battery
Store in a cool, dry place

Here’s a mowing tip that solves many lawn care problems: Monitor the mower blades

Sharp Blade infographic
Photo Credit: Juan Rodriguez

Dull blades can seriously harm the grass and make it vulnerable to nasty diseases and stress. If you see grass blades with a rough cut instead of a clean trim, or the lawn gets a faded look, with blade tips turning brown a few days after mowing, inspect the mower blades.

Dull blades have a rounded edge that reflects light, and sometimes, nicks and dents. You can sharpen the mower blades DIY, take them for professional sharpening, or replace them with new blades.

How often should you sharpen mower blades? The rule of thumb is once every 25 hours of use, but you’ll also want to sharpen them if:

  • You hit rocks and nick the blade.
  • The lawn shows signs of a dull blade.

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Mow it Yourself? Or Hire a Pro

Mowing can be a daunting task, especially with a large lawn. You can trade it in for a relaxing mowing-free weekend with only a few clicks. Find a lawn mowing professional in your area with LawnStarter, have your lawn perfectly mowed, and enjoy your lush, neat turfgrass with zero effort.

LawnStarter participates in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program. LawnStarter may earn revenue from products promoted in this article. 

Main Image Credit: Daniel Watson / Unsplash / License

Sinziana Spiridon

Sinziana Spiridon

Sinziana Spiridon is an outdoorsy blog writer with a green thumb and a passion for organic gardening. When not writing about weeds, pests, soil, and growing plants, she's tending to her veggie garden and the lovely turf strip in her front yard.