Buffalograss is one of the few grasses that genuinely earns its low-maintenance reputation, but getting it established takes real work. Know what you’re signing up for, and it pays off for years.
This guide covers everything you need to know about how to grow buffalograss: site requirements, planting methods (seed, sod, or plugs), watering, fertilizing, mowing, and weed control, so your lawn thrives with minimal effort once it’s in.
Establishing buffalograss takes proper site prep, careful weed control, and the right mowing schedule. If you’d rather leave the upkeep to a pro, LawnStarter’s mowing services can help once your lawn is established.
| Key Takeaways |
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| • Buffalograss is the only native North American grass that forms sod suitable for a home lawn, making it an exceptional low-maintenance choice for dry climates. • Establishment requires significant effort: proper site preparation, weed removal, and consistent watering. • Buffalograss has an open growth habit, so weeds are a recurring battle; a proactive herbicide program is essential. |
Buffalograss at a Glance
Classification: Warm-season grass
Spreads by: Stolons
Soil type: Well-draining native soils, except sand
Soil pH: 6.5-7.5
Mowing height: 2-4 inches
Shade tolerance: Very low
Drought resistance: High
Foot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, depending on the cultivar
Maintenance needs: Low
Potential for disease: Low
Insect pest resistance: High
Other notes: Not a good choice for saline or sandy soils
The Basics of Buffalograss
Buffalograss (Bouteloua dactyloides, formerly Buchloe dactyloides) is a warm-season perennial grass from the North American Great Plains.
On the prairies, buffalograss supported the great buffalo herds that roamed the plains. Early settlers even used its sod to build homes.
It thrives in the shortgrass and mixed-grass prairies, a broad band running from Texas north through Kansas, Nebraska, and into the Dakotas. It generally does not perform well east of the Mississippi, in the humid Southeast, or along the rainy Pacific Coast.
Buffalograss has amazing heat and drought tolerance, with roots reaching 3 feet deep or more. It needs very little supplemental nutrition and has good pest resistance.
On the other hand, it doesn’t have a high traffic tolerance. If you have kids who constantly play in the yard or pets that frequently frolic across the lawn, you may want to pass on buffalograss or look for a cultivar bred for better foot traffic tolerance.
See Related: Guide to Growing Warm-Season Grasses
Buffalograss Pros and Cons: Is It the Right Grass for You?
Pros of Buffalograss
Texture: Fine-textured blades create soft, pleasant grass
Drought tolerance: Uses 1/3 to 1/2 of the water of conventional turfgrasses
Fertilizer needs: Low requirements compared to most turfgrasses
Cold tolerance: Survives harsh winters with ease
Maintenance: Extremely low effort year-round
Planting options: Available as seeds, sod, or plugs
Cons of Buffalograss
Seed cost: Expensive compared to other grass seed
Establishment: Needs heavy watering initially
Weed susceptibility: Open growth habit allows weed invasion
Foot traffic: Not all cultivars withstand heavy use
Fire risk: Dormant buffalograss is dry and highly flammable. In wildfire-prone areas, a dormant lawn can act as kindling near structures. Keep dormant turf mowed short (3 to 4 inches) to reduce risk.
Does Buffalograss Grow in My Area? (Site Requirements)
Buffalograss is a great fit if you live in the Great Plains, Mountain West, or lower Midwest, and a poor fit if you live in the Southeast, Florida, or the Pacific Coast. Check these 3 requirements against your yard before investing in seed or sod.
Buffalograss Sunlight Requirements
Buffalograss needs at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight every day to meet its sunlight requirement. If your yard is shaded by mature trees or faces north, buffalograss will thin out and struggle. A yard that gets full afternoon sun is ideal.
Buffalograss Soil Requirements
This prairie grass thrives in the heavy clay and loam soils common in its native range. It does not grow well in sandy soils, where it can’t compete with weeds, and struggles in saline soils. A soil pH in the preferred soil pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 is ideal.
Buffalograss Climate Requirements
Buffalograss thrives in arid and semi-arid climates, making it a natural choice for a sustainable desert lawn. It can also grow in parts of the transition zone if conditions are dry enough.
If you live in Florida, most of Georgia, the Carolinas, or west of the Cascades in the Pacific Northwest, it’s not the right grass for your yard.
High humidity promotes fungal disease and weed competition that buffalograss has no defense against.
See Related: Guide to Growing Grass in the Transition Zone
How to Plant a Buffalograss Lawn (Seed, Sod, or Plugs)
Getting buffalograss established is the hardest part. Despite its reputation as a low-maintenance grass, the establishment phase demands real effort: site prep, weed removal, and consistent watering until the roots take hold.
After that, the grass largely takes care of itself.
You have the option of sowing seeds, laying sod, or planting plugs:
Planting seeds is cheaper than sod, but it takes longer to get an established lawn.
Laying sod gives you a ready-made yard, but installation is labor-intensive and expensive with typical sod installation cost ranging from $0.60 to $1.65 per square foot installed.
Grass plugs lie somewhere in between. They take less time to fill in than seed, at a medium price point.
Preparing Your Site for Buffalograss
Start with a clean slate. Remove all existing grass and weeds with a non-selective herbicide, a product that kills all vegetation so it doesn’t compete with your new buffalograss.
Once everything is dead (typically 1–2 weeks after application), till the soil to a depth of 2 to 4 inches, then level and lightly firm the ground. You may need to wait another couple of weeks before seeding: check the post-emergent label.
If you’re converting from cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue, start in late summer. Apply the herbicide, wait for the turf to fully die, then till the next year, before your late-spring buffalograss planting window.
When to Plant Buffalograss
| Method | Best Timing | Ideal Air Temperature |
| Seed | Late spring to mid-summer | 70 to 90 degrees |
| Plugs | Late spring through early fall | 70 to 90 degrees |
| Sod | Spring through early fall | 60 to 90 degrees |
Buffalograss seed: Plant in late spring or early summer after the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees. This gives the seed a full season to develop a robust root system before winter dormancy.
Buffalograss sod or plugs: You have more flexibility. Install whenever you have time. However, late spring or early fall planting during moderate temperatures significantly increases success rates.
See Related: When is the Best Time to Plant Grass Seed?
How Much Buffalograss Seed You Need
A typical seeding rate is about 1 to 3 pounds per 1,000 square feet, but always follow the product label. Using more seed won’t make the grass fill in faster and can waste money given how expensive buffalograss seed is.
The Cost Of Starting Buffalograss
Buffalograss seed is difficult to harvest, which drives the seed cost up, making it more expensive than other turfgrasses. On sale, it can easily cost $50 for a 1-pound bag.
Buffalograss sod: Costs about $1.00 per square foot.
Buffalograss plugs: Costs about $1 per plug; 6 dozen plugs cost about $70.
How to Care for Your Buffalograss Once It’s Established
Once your buffalograss lawn is established, the hard part is over. Maintaining buffalograss takes significantly less time, effort, and resources than many other turfgrasses.
Watering Your Buffalograss
Buffalograss has lower irrigation needs, with newer varieties typically requiring 50% to 75% less irrigation than Kentucky bluegrass, according to Colorado State Extension.
Overwatering promotes weed growth and can increase disease and insect problems, so only irrigate when you see signs your lawn needs water. Watch for wilting, the grass going to seed, or blades thinning out, then water deeply.
If you use a sprinkler system, run it early in the morning and finish by 10 a.m.
During extended drought, you can choose not to water at all. Buffalograss will go dormant and lose its green color, but it will survive and recover once moisture returns.
When and How to Fertilize Buffalograss
Apply 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet annually, split into 2 feedings in late May to early June and late July to early August. Missouri University recommends using a fertilizer with at least 35% slow-release nitrogen and an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2 or 4-1-2.
You’ll want to apply half of the yearly recommendation (0.5-1 lb) in May-June and the other half in July- August. Most turfgrasses like 3 doses of fertilizer a year, but in this case, less is more.
| Application | Timing | Amount |
| First feeding | Late May to early June | 0.5-1 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. |
| Second feeding | Late July to Early August | 0.5-1 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. |
Buffalograss needs only 2 fertilizer applications per year. Exact rates depend on soil type, organic matter content, and cultivar. Run a soil test every 2 to 3 years to make sure you’re feeding your grass correctly.
See Related: How and When to Fertilize Buffalograss Lawns
Mowing Recommendations for Buffalograss
How often you mow buffalograss is the biggest factor in how hands-off your lawn maintenance actually is. You have a few options:
Manicured look: Mow weekly at 2 to 3 inches.
Lower maintenance: Mow every 3 to 4 weeks at 3 to 4 inches.
Minimal care: Leave unmowed except for an annual spring cut at 3 to 4 inches to remove the old growth.
See Related: How to Mow Your Lawn: A No-Nonsense Guide
Dethatching and Aerating Buffalograss
Once the thatch thickness gets over 1/2 inch, it’s time to dethatch your lawn to improve air and water movement into the soil. Depending on your mowing and fertilizer routine, this could be yearly or every 2 to 3 years.
Core aerate every year or 2 to break up compaction and improve water penetration. Do both in late spring or early summer, just before summer temperatures peak.
See Related:
Buffalograss Weed Management
Buffalograss won’t choke out weeds on its own. Its open growth habit makes it more prone to weeds, so your best defense is a 2-part herbicide program:
Pre-emergent herbicide (applied in early spring and, if needed, early fall): Stops weed seeds from sprouting before you see them
Post-emergent herbicide (applied during the growing season as needed): Kills weeds that are already visible
Buffalograss is sensitive to many herbicides, especially those containing 2,4-D. Only use products labeled for use on buffalograss and follow the instructions carefully.
Do not apply pre-emergent herbicides if you’re seeding. They’ll prevent your grass seed from germinating too.
Wait until the new lawn is well established and has been mowed at least 2 to 4 times before applying most herbicide timing treatments.
Spot-spray post-emergent herbicide and avoid broadcast applications.
Don’t apply if you expect temperatures over 75 degrees.
See Related: Weed Spraying in Your Lawn: How to Do It Safely and Effectively
Buffalograss Insect and Disease Management
As a native grass, buffalograss has few insect and disease problems, but it isn’t completely immune, especially if you’re overwatering or overfertilizing.
Common insects include:
Buffalograss webworms
Mealybugs
Short-tailed crickets
Buffalograss chinch bugs
Although disease pressure is generally low, buffalograss can be susceptible to Bipolaris leaf spot. Regularly scout your lawn and begin treatment quickly when you spot signs of pests or disease, such as abnormal browning or thinning.
See Related: Guide to Weed Control in Your Yard
FAQs
In home lawns, it’s not advisable. The cool-season grass tends to outcompete the buffalograss over time, even with careful management. Colorado State University Extension specifically recommends against seeding Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, or tall fescue into buffalograss.
Buffalograss seed costs more because female plants hide their seed burs near the ground, making mechanized harvest slow and inefficient. The burs also block germination, so harvested seed must be soaked and chilled to break dormancy before it’s sold.
No, buffalograss is a warm-season grass that turns brown and goes dormant after the first hard frosts. It greens up again in late spring once temperatures warm and consistent growth resumes.
From seed, expect germination in 2 to 4 weeks, with a full growing season needed for complete coverage. Plugs typically fill in within 6 to 12 weeks.
Want a Buffalograss Lawn Without the Wait?
Buffalograss rewards patience, but the establishment phase is real work: seedbed preparation, weeks of careful watering, and weed control while it fills in.
If you’d rather skip that and have a green lawn the day it’s installed, LawnStarter’s sod installation pros can handle it for you.
Main Image: Dense buffalograss in a lawn. Image Credit: Pixnio
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