The easiest way to keep Bermudagrass out of flower beds is to avoid planting this turfgrass altogether. But for many gardeners and homeowners in the South, Bermudagrass is already well established in their yards.
So, how can you protect your prized flowers from this pesky weed? From buffer zones to solarization, we’ll explain how to keep Bermudagrass out of your flower beds and what to do if it’s already invaded.
Keeping Bermudagrass at bay requires barriers, regular monitoring, and targeted herbicide use. If that sounds like a lot, LawnStarter’s flower bed weeding service can handle it for you.
| Key Takeaways |
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| • Bury physical barriers at least 6 inches deep, with 4 inches above the soil line, to keep Bermudagrass out of adjacent beds. • Buffer zones between lawns and flower beds make it easier to spot and eliminate Bermudagrass before it reaches your plants. • Selective herbicides like sethoxydim can kill Bermudagrass in flower beds without harming most flowers or vegetables. |
How to Keep Bermudagrass Out of Flower Beds
Keep Bermudagrass out of flower beds by installing 10-inch-tall edging barriers (6 inches underground, 4 inches above), creating a buffer zone between your lawn and beds, and using selective herbicides like sethoxydim for any existing invasions.
Why does Bermudagrass keep coming back? Unlike most weeds, Bermudagrass spreads 3 ways simultaneously:
Rhizomes: Underground stems that tunnel beneath your edging and pop up inside flower beds.
Stolons (runners): Above-ground stems that crawl across soil or even across pavement to reach new territory.
Seeds: Airborne seeds that can land anywhere in your yard, germinating in disturbed soil.
Bermudagrass quickly invades raised beds, vegetable gardens, and shrub borders. A single missed runner can restart an entire invasion. That’s why effective control always requires layering multiple methods — a barrier alone won’t be enough.
| Method | Best For | Time to Work |
| Physical Barriers | New or existing beds | Immediate protection |
| Buffer Zones | Early detection and interception | Ongoing maintenance |
| Solarization and smothering | Chemical-free control | Leave it there 6 to 8 weeks |
Here’s how to stop Bermudagrass from spreading:
1. Create a Bermudagrass Weed Barrier for Flower Beds
Use plastic or metal edging at least 10 inches tall: A deep physical barrier is the most effective long-term defense for your flower beds.
Create a trench at about 6 inches deep: The stems of Bermudagrass run about 6 inches deep, so it should deter an underground invasion.
Add 4 inches of edging above the soil: Raised garden beds should keep runners from going over the top. Bermudagrass runners are tenacious.
Mow alongside the edging regularly: Your barrier fails if Bermudagrass grows tall and develops seed. Use this mowing height guide to keep common Bermudagrass at 1 to 2 inches tall, well below the barrier.
Tip: Give your garden bed extra protection by applying mulch — it prevents existing weed seeds from sprouting and stops new ones from reaching the soil.
See Related: Types of Mulch: How to Choose the Right One for Your Landscape
2. Create a Bermudagrass Buffer Zone Between Your Lawn and Flower Beds
A buffer zone is a strip of bare or treated ground between your lawn and your flower bed that acts as an early warning system. Because it’s free of plants, Bermudagrass that sneaks past your edging becomes immediately visible — and easy to pull or spot-treat before it ever reaches your flowers.
The buffer zone goes between the garden bed and the lawn: It acts as a trap for encroaching Bermudagrass before it reaches the edged garden bed. This makes it easy to spot and pull Bermudagrass before it spreads too far.
Consider spraying for weeds with a targeted herbicide in your buffer zone. There are 2 types to know:
Non-selective herbicides (e.g., glyphosate) kill any plant they touch, including your flowers. Use these only in the bare buffer zone, never near desirable plants.
Selective grass herbicides (e.g., sethoxydim, fluazifop-P-butyl) target only grassy plants, leaving broadleaf flowers, vegetables, and ornamentals unharmed. These are safe to apply directly in flower beds when Bermudagrass has already crept in.
Pro Tip: Always check that the product label specifically lists Bermudagrass as a target weed, and follow all label directions.
See Related: Weed Spraying in Your Lawn: How to Do It Safely and Effectively
3. Chemical-Free Methods to Remove Bermudagrass From Flower Beds
Smother Bermudagrass with Cardboard or Landscape Fabric
Mow or use a weed eater to cut the grass: Get it as close to the ground as possible.
Wet the area: Moisten the soil thoroughly before covering.
Place a single layer of cardboard.
Overlap the edges of the chosen material: About 6 inches of overlap prevents the grass from creeping through to reach the light.
Use lawn staples to hold it in place: Add a couple of inches of mulch (wood chips, for example) over the top.
Eventually, the cardboard will disintegrate: It smothers Bermudagrass as it breaks down.
You can also use landscape fabric, but it’s not always the weed-proof miracle it’s marketed as.
When weed seeds blow in and settle on top of the landscape cloth, they can take root. Or sometimes weeds break through the landscape cloth. Either way, you’re still having to pull them out.
Cook Bermudagrass With Plastic
To cook up the Bermudagrass, you can use clear plastic (a process called solarization that heats soil to 108 to 140 degrees, per UC IPM guidelines), or opaque black plastic (commonly known as occultation).
This is how solarization works:
Mow or weed-whack the Bermudagrass: Cut as close to the ground as possible — essentially scalping your lawn in that area.
Wet the area: Water the soil thoroughly before applying the plastic.
Place clear UV plastic on top: Follow this USU Extension advice and extend it roughly 2 feet beyond the Bermudagrass stolons.
Secure all edges with no gaps.
Leave in place for 6 to 8 weeks: Colorado State University’s weed management guide recommends the June-through-August window for the best summer heat. Applying the plastic in spring or fall, when temperatures are cooler, significantly reduces effectiveness.
For occultation, the process is similar:
Wet the area: Moisten the soil before covering.
Lay black polyethylene: Cover the Bermudagrass in summer.
Leave it there for 4 to 8 weeks.
Keep it flush to the ground: No gaps or holes — Bermudagrass will find a way through.
Seasonal Maintenance Checklist for Bermudagrass Control in Flower Beds
Bermudagrass control isn’t a one-and-done project — it’s an ongoing habit. Here’s a simple schedule to stay ahead of it:
Spring (March–April): Inspect edging barriers for gaps or heaving caused by winter freeze-thaw cycles. Re-seat or replace as needed. Apply a fresh layer of mulch to flower beds.
Summer (May–August): Peak growing season — check buffer zones weekly. Hand-pull or spot-treat with selective herbicide any runners that breach the barrier. This is the best window for solarization if a bed is heavily infested.
Fall (September–October): Mow lawn edges low before dormancy to reduce seed spread. Replenish mulch after summer heat depletes it.
Winter (November–February): Bermudagrass is dormant but rhizomes are still alive underground. Use this window to repair or deepen physical barriers before spring growth resumes.
See Related: Bermudagrass Guide: Types, Traits, and Care
Materials Needed for Bermudagrass Control in Flower Beds
Fighting Bermudagrass requires the right tools. Having these on hand before you start will save time and improve results.
| Control Method | Tools Needed | Purpose |
| Physical Barriers | 10-inch edging, shovel | Block underground spread |
| Smothering | Cardboard, lawn staples, mulch | Deprive grass of light |
| Solarization or occultation | Clear or black plastic sheeting | Heat treatment removal |
| Chemical Removal | Garden fork, selective herbicide | Spot treatment in beds |
Best Methods to Remove Bermudagrass From Flower Beds
If Bermudagrass has already invaded your flower bed, act as quickly as possible — the longer it grows, the deeper the rhizomes go and the harder removal becomes. You have 2 main options depending on how far the invasion has spread:
Hand-pull the Bermudagrass
This eco-friendly approach works best when the invasion is still small. Dig deep with a garden fork to remove the entire root system.
Timing your removal matters. Bermudagrass is easiest to pull by hand after rain has softened the soil, and herbicides work best when the grass is green and actively growing.
Spray selective herbicides
According to UC IPM guidance selective grass herbicides like sethoxydim (Grass Getter) and fluazifop-P-butyl (Fusilade II Turf & Ornamental Herbicide) target Bermudagrass in flower beds without harming most flowers or vegetables (read the label).
Apply when Bermudagrass is actively growing, from early spring through summer, when regrowth is under 6 inches. Avoid drought stress or extreme heat. Most selective herbicides require a second application 2 to 3 weeks later.
FAQs
Vinegar can kill exposed Bermudagrass blades on contact, but it won’t reach roots or underground rhizomes, so regrowth is likely within days.
Yes. Even without rhizomes or stolons reaching your bed, Bermudagrass seeds can blow in from your lawn and germinate in bare or disturbed soil. Applying 2 to 3 inches of mulch and using a pre-emergent herbicide in early spring helps prevent seed germination in flower beds.
No common ornamental plants can reliably outcompete Bermudagrass. Its rhizomes grow under and around the roots of almost any plant. Use physical barriers and selective herbicides rather than competitive planting. Plants complement a control strategy but don’t replace it.
St. Augustine, Zoysia, buffalograss, and tall fescue are common alternatives, depending on your region. Contact your local Cooperative Extension office for region-specific recommendations.
Let LawnStarter Handle Your Flower Bed Weeding
Bermudagrass won’t give up, but you don’t have to fight it alone. LawnStarter’s flower bed weeding pros can handle the hand-pulling and edge-checking that keeps runners from sneaking back into your beds.
Main Image: Bermudagrass lawn. Image Credit: Stanley Howe / Geograph / CC BY-SA 2.0
