Cheatgrass is one of the toughest invasive weeds to eliminate — but it can be done. The most effective approach combines applying a pre-emergent in the fall, hand-pulling sprouted weeds, and reseeding with native grasses to crowd it out long-term.
Getting rid of cheatgrass for good requires timing and persistence. A single treatment rarely works. This guide walks you through exactly how to identify it, kill it, and prevent it from coming back.
If you’re dealing with a severe infestation, LawnStarter’s landscaping pros can handle cheatgrass removal and reseeding for you.
| Key Takeaways |
|---|
| • Act in fall: That’s when cheatgrass is easiest to control. • Use imazapic or glyphosate for established plants; pre-emergents for prevention. • Reseed thin areas and bare patches to stop cheatgrass from coming back. |
What Is Cheatgrass?
Cheatgrass (Bromus tectorum), also called downy brome or drooping brome, is a winter annual grass native to Europe and parts of Asia. This invasive weed is present across the entire United States, classified as a noxious weed in several Western states (e.g., Arizona, Colorado, and Wyoming), and a regulated plant in Montana.
Here’s why it’s so hard to beat:
- Germinates in the fall, with a head start over native plants that sprout in the spring
- Up to 10,000 plants can grow in a single square yard
- Each plant produces 25 to 5,000 seeds, and up to 95% will germinate
- Thrives in a variety of soils and conditions
- Spreads aggressively along roadsides, prairies, wildlands, and fire-damaged areas
What does cheatgrass look like? Young plants are bright green and grow in small bunches. By spring, they turn reddish-brown, reach 3-30 inches tall, and develop soft, fuzzy, drooping seedheads. That drooping shape is the easiest way to identify it.
See Related: What is Cheatgrass?
How to Get Rid of Cheatgrass: 3 Proven Methods
The key to controlling cheatgrass is keeping it from reaching maturity and going to seed.
1. Prevention (Best in Late Summer to Early Fall)
Stop cheatgrass before it starts — late summer to early fall. Seeds germinate in early fall, as soon as there’s enough moisture in the soil, so acting then gives you the most leverage.
- Apply a pre-emergent herbicide. According to Oregon State University, trifluralin is an effective pre-emergent for cheatgrass. Apply before the seeds sprout.
- Brush off gear after visiting areas where cheatgrass grows. Seeds cling to boots, clothing, pets, and vehicles, hitching rides to new locations.
- Buy only high-quality, weed-free plant seeds.
Cheatgrass targets the weak spots in your lawn — along edges and wherever the turf is thin and struggling, says Jess Butler, supervisor with the Converse County, Wyoming, Weed and Pest District. Keeping your grass healthy and vigorous is your best defense.
See Related: When to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide (Spring & Fall Guide)
2. Eradication (Once Cheatgrass Sprouts)
If cheatgrass has already started to grow and spread, you’ll need a more aggressive approach.
Manual removal: Hand-pull or dig plants in spring and fall, whenever new ones appear. Bag the waste, don’t compost it. The seeds can survive. And never burn cheatgrass; it’s extremely flammable and can spread fire rapidly.
Tilling and solarization:
- Tilling removes roots but may stir up buried seeds. Follow up with a chemical treatment.
- Solarization kills plants and seeds. Saturate the area with water and cover with a plastic tarp for at least a month.
- Mulching can prevent germination. Cover the area with a heavy layer of mulch.
Learn more about hand-pulling and mulching cheatgrass in this video from Coconino County Cooperative Extension.
Mowing: Cutting cheatgrass short in spring and early summer can help slow its spread. Some plants will regrow and set seeds at a reduced height, so don’t rely solely on mowing. Bag the clippings and dispose of them.
Chemical removal: Using a cheatgrass killer is usually the most effective option for established infestations. Butler recommends contacting your local Extension Office for guidance. The most widely recommended products are not necessarily safe for lawns:
“Imazapic and Indaziflam are the most common and most effective herbicides to use on cheatgrass in range and/or pastures. Neither of these herbicides are labeled for turfgrass.”
Here are a few pre- and post-emergent herbicides Washington State University Pesticide Information Center Online (PICOL) lists for cheatgrass in residential landscapes.
| Herbicide (for home use) | Active Ingredient | Best for / Labeled for use around |
| Monterey Vegetable & Ornamental Weeder | Trifluralin | Pre-emergent for cheatgrass prevention. For groundcovers, flower beds, shrubs and trees. |
| RoundUp Dual Action Weed and Grass Killer Plus 4 Month Preventer | A mix with imazapic | Prevention plus established plants. On patios, driveways, around established trees, shrubs, and plants. |
| Ornamec 170 Grass Herbicide | Fluazifop | Established plants. Selective. It won’t harm turf, groundcovers, shrubs, and trees if used correctly. |
| Martin’s Eraser | Glyphosate | Established plants. Non-selective. Spot-treat to avoid killing surrounding vegetation. |
Source: PICOL
For xeriscapes, flowerbeds and gardens, glyphosate is a good option if applied before the weeds seed. Butler also flags a common source of confusion: Brand names like Roundup now contain various active ingredients, not always glyphosate. Check the label’s ingredients before buying.
Safety: Wear protective eyewear, a safety mask, gloves, closed-toe shoes, and long sleeves when applying herbicides. Keep children and pets indoors until the spray has fully dried. Don’t spray on windy days.
Plan on multiple applications. The seeds can survive in the soil for up to 5 years.
See Related: Post-Emergent Herbicides: Which One for Which Weed?
3. Reseeding
Reseed bare patches with native perennial grasses in the same season. Native grasses like Bluebunch wheatgrass, buffalograss, and blue grama are the most effective competition for cheatgrass. They physically crowd out the weeds and prevent them from spreading.
See Related: Native Grasses: Are They Right for Your Lawn?
For Severe Infestations, Be Persistent and Use an Integrated Approach
“Weed infestations do not appear overnight, and they will not go away overnight,” says Butler. After cheatgrass establishes and goes to seed, you’re working against a seedbank that can stay viable in the soil for up to 5 years.
The biggest mistake homeowners make when combating cheatgrass is not being persistent and allowing cheatgrass to go to seed, says Butler. This “will make eradication impossible.”
For large or recurring problems, combine multiple methods and repeat treatments for 3-6 years to deplete the seed bank.
Need help developing a multi-season treatment plan? LawnStarter landscaping pros can help with invasive weed removal and lawn restoration.
Why You Should Remove Cheatgrass – Fast
Fire Risk
Cheatgrass dies earlier than native plants, creating dry kindling before wildfire season even begins. A 2018 study found that Intermountain West areas with at least 15% cheatgrass were 2 to 4 times more likely to burn — even 1%-5% coverage elevated risk significantly. Remove any cheatgrass within 30 feet of your home or structures.
See Related: How to Create Fire-Resistant Landscaping
Invasive Damage to Ecosystems
Cheatgrass aggressively outcompetes native sagebrush and other plants that wildlife depend on for food and shelter. Once established, it’s very hard for native species to recover without human intervention.
Danger to Pets
Covered in barbed awns that hook into fur, skin, ears, noses, and paws like fishhooks, the seeds can migrate into tissue, causing sores and internal damage. In rare cases, dogs have inhaled seeds, leading to abdominal and lung pain — and in extreme cases, death.
After any walk in an area where cheatgrass might grow, check your dog the same way you’d check for ticks. If you find seeds, remove and dispose of them immediately.
See Related: Dangers of Cheatgrass
Cheatgrass Removal Timeline
| Season | What to Do |
| Early Fall | Apply pre-emergent herbicide; identify and mark infested areas; hand-pull seedlings |
| Late Fall | Monitor and pull seedlings as they emerge; apply a post-emergent herbicide |
| Winter through Spring | Pull or spot treat before the head seed forms |
| Late Spring | Seed heads already formed — mow to reduce risks for pets |
| Summer | Reseed cleared areas with native grasses; water regularly |
See Related: How to Kill Winter Weeds
FAQ
Vinegar can kill young cheatgrass seedlings, but only at industrial concentrations (20%-30% acetic acid) that will also kill surrounding plants, harm soil health, and can be hazardous to handle. Use a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate for reliable results.
Don’t disturb the plants — you risk spreading seeds. Contact your local U.S. Forest Service office or county weed management program to report it. Many states have active cheatgrass management programs and can take action on public land.
Yes. Cheatgrass seeds remain viable in the soil for up to 5 years, so plan on herbicide treatments for several years in a row and reseed to fill in thin and bare areas.
There’s no cheatgrass herbicide that’s 100% safe for turfgrass or native grasses. Imazapic is the best selective option for pasture areas. It targets cheatgrass while leaving the most desirable native grasses unharmed if applied correctly.
When to Call a Pro
Once cheatgrass is widespread, restoring your lawn takes multiple seasons of consistent effort. If it’s covering a large area, close to your home, or you’re in a wildfire-prone region, it’s worth getting professional help sooner rather than later.
LawnStarter connects you with local landscaping pros and lawn treatment specialists experienced in invasive weed removal and turf restoration. Get your free quote and take back your yard.
Main Image: Dry cheatgrass with reddish seed heads in soil. Image Credit: Brenda Ryan / LawnStarter
