- Basic Espalier Forms<\/a><\/li>
- How to Espalier a Tree<\/a><\/li>
- How to Care for an Espaliered Tree<\/a><\/li>
- Benefits of Espaliered Trees<\/a><\/li>
- What Fruit Trees Are Good for Espalier<\/a><\/li>
- What Other Plants Are Good for Espalier?<\/a><\/li>
- FAQ About Espalier<\/a><\/li><\/ul> \t\t\t<\/div> \t\t<\/div><\/div>
Basic Espalier Forms<\/h2>
There are a handful of basic espalier (es-PAL-yer OR es-pal-YAY) forms to choose from, with the following four the most commonly used. The forms vary in the amount of time and work it takes to create the desired shape.<\/p>
The basic framework of simple designs may be established in three or four years, while intricate designs will take longer.<\/p>
![\"common](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/rsz_rsz_common_espalier_shapes-646x673.jpg\")
<\/figure> - Horizontal cordon:<\/strong> The most common framework, a central trunk is grown with lateral branches growing outward horizontally. A 3-tier design is the most common.
<\/li>- Candelabra:<\/strong> A low horizontal branch comes off the central trunk, with vertical branches growing upward at regular intervals to create a candelabra shape.
<\/li>- Belgian lattice:<\/strong> Also known as the Belgian fence, three or more V-shaped espaliers are woven together to create a lattice effect. The trees on either end are modified to maintain the intended finished edge.
<\/li>- Fan:<\/strong> A central trunk has branches angling out at 45-degree angles to create a fan shape.<\/li> <\/ul>
How to Espalier a Tree<\/h2>
\t\t\t\t\t\tHow to Espalier a Tree <\/strong><\/p> \t\t\t
<\/span><\/div> \t\t<\/div> \t\t\t- Choosing a Tree<\/a> <\/li>
- Selecting a Planting Site<\/a><\/li>
- Building a Support Structure<\/a><\/li>
- Equipment<\/a><\/li>
- Building the Structure<\/a><\/li>
- Planting Your Tree<\/a><\/li> <\/ul> <\/div> \t\t<\/div> <\/div>
Before you get started on espaliering a tree, it\u2019s important to understand this process is time-consuming and takes a lot of time and dedication. These trees aren\u2019t any less work than growing trees traditionally.<\/p>
It\u2019s best to start this process in early spring with a bare root specimen.<\/p>
Choosing a Tree<\/h3>
Regardless of if you opt to espalier apple trees, another fruiting variety, or an ornamental, keep in mind a couple of things when purchasing a tree:<\/p>
- When choosing trees, a dwarf tree or semi-dwarf variety works the best because of their naturally shorter stature. It\u2019s also best to choose a fast-growing specimen as this will make the training process quicker and easier.
<\/li> - Young saplings that are only 1 or 2 years old work best. Their limbs are still quite pliable compared to an older tree.
<\/li> - If you are planting a fruit tree, opt for self-pollinating types of fruit trees if you are only planting one. If planting an apple, choose apple trees that are spur-bearing since they produce more fruit.<\/li> <\/ul>
Selecting a Planting Site<\/h3>
Look for a spot in your yard that receives full sunlight at least 6 to 8 hours a day (more if you are planting a fruit tree), and has at least 6 to 8 feet of open linear space for your espalier design.<\/p>
You want the soil to drain well, and optimally have a soil pH<\/a> between 6.0 and 7.5.<\/p>
Building a Support Structure<\/h3>
![\"plant](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/rsz_21778781156_760ee10c3a_c.jpg\")
A horizontally trained espalier tree against an existing wall. Credit: “Espaliered Fruit Tree,”
Photo Credit: Muffinn<\/a> \/ Flickr \/ CC BY 2.0<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>In order to train your tree to grow in the desired shape, you need to have a support structure in place until the tree matures enough so the wood hardens. This support structure can be:<\/p>
- Against a wall, typically brick or stucco as they are more resistant to weathering and damage than walls of your home that have vinyl or aluminum siding.
<\/li> - Along an established fence, a pergola, or trellis<\/a>, or trellises that are already in your yard.
<\/li>- Across a structure composed of sturdy, free-standing posts and horizontal wires similar to how the majority of wine grapes are grown.<\/li> <\/ul>
Before even planting your tree, this support structure needs to be constructed. As many homeowners choose to espalier trees against a wall or along a fence, the following directions are tailored to those two situations. I\u2019m also going to describe how to build a 3-tier horizontal cordon, as they are the most common.<\/p>
Equipment<\/h3>
To build the structure you will need:<\/p>
- Measuring tape<\/li>
- Pencil or chalk<\/li>
- Drill with a 3\/16\u201d bit (masonry bit if you are building against a brick or stucco wall)<\/li>
- 3\/16\u201d eye bolts (or wall mounts on masonry)<\/li>
- 12-gauge wire<\/li>
- Wire cutter<\/li>
- Pliers<\/li>
- Eye protection<\/li>
- Heavy-duty gloves<\/li> <\/ul>
Building the Structure<\/h3>
- Take measurements:<\/strong> Determine the approximate center spot of the open linear space in the intended location. Measure 4 feet up from the soil surface. Draw a line from the soil to the 4-foot point, using a pencil or chalk. This is where the central trunk of your tree will grow.
<\/li>- Mark the tiers:<\/strong> Along this vertical line, make marks at 16-inch intervals to create three evenly spaced tiers. At the first 16\u201d mark measure outward 3\u00bd feet in both directions to create the first tier, marking these horizontal lines. Repeat for the second and third tiers.
<\/li>- Install eye bolts along the center:<\/strong> Now that the basic outline is in place, don your eye protection and work gloves and break out the tools. Using your drill, install eye bolts along the central trunk at ground level and where each of the three tiers intersects. <\/li> <\/ol>
Note:<\/strong> The opening on the eye bolts should be 4″ to 6\u201d from the wall or trellis <\/strong>once installed. This allows the tree room to grow, promotes air circulation, and allows you to access the wall to perform maintenance if necessary.<\/p>
- Install eye bolts horizontally:<\/strong> Again, using your drill, install eye bolts at each end of the three horizontal tiers.
<\/li>- Thread wire through the bolts:<\/strong> Starting from the base of the central trunk, thread wire through the four eye bolts creating the vertical structure. Twist the wire using pliers at either end to secure it, and then snip with a wire cutter.
<\/li>- Repeat the process<\/strong> to thread wire vertically, creating the individual tiers.<\/li> <\/ol>
Planting Your Tree<\/h3>
![\"Graft](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/rsz_25670684188_f7a7b2c288_c_1-1.jpg\")
Graft Union
Photo Credit: Malcolm Manners<\/a> \/ Flickr \/ CC BY 2.0<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>After you have the support\/wire structure in place you can go ahead and plant your tree<\/a>. Here\u2019s a quick tutorial on how to do so:<\/p>
- Dig a hole that is slightly bigger than the root system on your tree, about 4 inches out from your structure.<\/strong> Using a sturdy digging shovel (I prefer one with a pointed center) if you can. Aim for a hole that is about two to three times as wide as the roots and only 2 to 3 inches deeper, regardless if you are planting bare-root or a container tree.
<\/li>- Place the root ball in the planting hole so the graft union \u2014 the visible spot where the rootstock was grafted to the fruit tree \u2014 is slightly above the soil surface line.<\/strong> A good way to ensure this is to lay a piece of lumber, a bamboo cane, or a fence post across the top of the hole to give you a visual indicator of ground level when the hole is filled in.
<\/li>- Begin filling in under the roots<\/strong> until it rests, unassisted, in the bottom of the hole. Once the tree rests in the hole, spread the roots out evenly and begin the process of filling in the rest of the hole.
<\/li>- Gently tamp the soil down with your foot as you fill the hole in<\/strong>, trying to remove all air pockets, without compacting the soil around the roots. Create a slight bowl or depression as you reach the top of the hole to allow water to settle naturally around the tree. Make sure you do not mound soil up around the trunk.<\/li> <\/ol>
Pro Tip:<\/strong> Water thoroughly throughout this process to ensure there are no air pockets.<\/p>
How to Care for an Espaliered Tree<\/h2>
Train and Prune<\/h3>
![\"pruned](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/rsz_pruned-horizontally-trained-pear-tree.jpg\")
Espaliering has been practiced for many years. This is a detail on pruning an espalier tree from an 1859 book, “The gardener’s assistant; a practical and scientific exposition of the art of gardening in all its branches<\/a>.”<\/figcaption><\/figure> Now that your tree is planted, it\u2019s time to work on training your tree into your chosen espalier shape.<\/p>
The principle behind espaliering a tree is simple: Plants have a main growing point or stem, known as a leader. If you remove this leader, shoots emerge from buds found on the sides of the stem, and below the cut. <\/p>
You then choose the best side shoots to guide\/train them to create the boughs of your espalier tree. The topmost shoot becomes the new leader and will eventually become the trunk. As the desired pattern emerges, you will want to regularly prune the new growth that takes away from your desired shape. You want to keep the plant low-growing.<\/p>
5 Steps for Pruning an Espaliered Fruit Tree<\/h3>
The following instructions are for training and pruning a fruit tree such as an apple or pear tree.<\/p>
- Attach the trunk of the tree to the vertical wire below the first tier<\/strong> using plant ties, rubber grafting bands, or stretchy strips of rags.
<\/li>- Prune the center trunk about 1-2 inches above the first tier<\/strong> using a heading cut<\/a> while making sure there are at least three buds below the cut.
<\/li>- Select the two healthiest shoots to attach to the bottom-most horizontal tier<\/strong> as the tree comes out of dormancy the first year and begins to grow.
<\/li>- Keep trimming the vertical growth of the tree to about 6 inches above the first tier to force horizontal growth<\/strong> until the horizontal branches grow to about three-fourths of the length of the support wires.
<\/li>- Regularly remove suckers that grow straight up from the lateral branches<\/strong>. Prune off extra spurs, the stubbier shoots, leaving one every 6-inches. As the spurs grow, prune them so they only have three leaves.
<\/li>- In the second year, <\/strong>you should have enough growth along the first horizontal tier to begin on the second. Allow the vertical trunk growth to come up above the second junction. Follow the same procedure you did with the first, training the two healthiest shoots along the support wire.
<\/li>- In the third year<\/strong>, repeat the process to create the third tier.
<\/li>- As your tree is growing, prune offshoots along the horizontal branches to about 4-5 inches in length<\/strong>. Prune any suckers (the new growth near the trunk of the tree) or water sprouts that grow. Prune off growth along the vertical trunk. Remove any fruit that develops during the first four years.
<\/li>- Once your espaliered fruit tree reaches the desired height and width, switch to maintenance pruning<\/strong>. You want to keep your horizontal shoots at the proper length and any offshoots shorter to maintain separation between the tiers. Pruning the tips of the horizontal shoots will encourage more spurs to grow and develop fruit.<\/li> <\/ol>
- Prune the center trunk about 1-2 inches above the first tier<\/strong> using a heading cut<\/a> while making sure there are at least three buds below the cut.
- Place the root ball in the planting hole so the graft union \u2014 the visible spot where the rootstock was grafted to the fruit tree \u2014 is slightly above the soil surface line.<\/strong> A good way to ensure this is to lay a piece of lumber, a bamboo cane, or a fence post across the top of the hole to give you a visual indicator of ground level when the hole is filled in.
- Thread wire through the bolts:<\/strong> Starting from the base of the central trunk, thread wire through the four eye bolts creating the vertical structure. Twist the wire using pliers at either end to secure it, and then snip with a wire cutter.
- Mark the tiers:<\/strong> Along this vertical line, make marks at 16-inch intervals to create three evenly spaced tiers. At the first 16\u201d mark measure outward 3\u00bd feet in both directions to create the first tier, marking these horizontal lines. Repeat for the second and third tiers.
- Take measurements:<\/strong> Determine the approximate center spot of the open linear space in the intended location. Measure 4 feet up from the soil surface. Draw a line from the soil to the 4-foot point, using a pencil or chalk. This is where the central trunk of your tree will grow.
- Across a structure composed of sturdy, free-standing posts and horizontal wires similar to how the majority of wine grapes are grown.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Against a wall, typically brick or stucco as they are more resistant to weathering and damage than walls of your home that have vinyl or aluminum siding.
- Selecting a Planting Site<\/a><\/li>
- Candelabra:<\/strong> A low horizontal branch comes off the central trunk, with vertical branches growing upward at regular intervals to create a candelabra shape.
- How to Espalier a Tree<\/a><\/li>