- Why Overseed in the Fall with Fescue?<\/a><\/li>
- How to Overseed in the Fall With Fescue<\/a>
- 1. Make a Plan<\/a><\/li>
- 2. Choose High-Quality Seed<\/a><\/li>
- 3. Prep the Overseeding Site<\/a><\/li>
- 4. When the Time is Right, Apply Starter Fertilizer<\/a><\/li>
- 5. Plant Your Seeds<\/a><\/li>
- 6. Care for the Young Grass<\/a><\/li>
- 7. Mow the Right Way<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li>
- FAQs<\/a><\/li><\/ul> \t\t\t<\/div> \t\t<\/div><\/div>
Why Overseed in the Fall with Fescue?<\/h2>
When you overseed a lawn<\/a>, you spread new, fresh grass seed over an already existing lawn in order to cover up any bare spots and enhance the thickness of the grass.<\/p>
\u201cIt\u2019s a rejuvenation of the lawn,\u201d says Tom Good, Horticulture Assistant with the Kansas State University Extension office in Johnson County.<\/p>
You do it, he says, after those long, hot, dry summers have wreaked havoc on your grass. Adding the fescue, which grows its best in the cool temperatures of fall and spring, breathes new life into that tired lawn.<\/p>
Why won\u2019t fescue repair itself?<\/strong> Tall and fine fescues are bunch-type grasses<\/strong>, which don\u2019t have runners to produce new plants as warm-season grasses<\/a> do. Bunch-type grasses must be overseeded to repair bare patches, and the best time for overseeding fescue is in the fall. <\/p>
How to Overseed in the Fall With Fescue<\/h2>
1. Make a Plan<\/h3>
Get your soil tested:<\/strong> The first step is knowing what you\u2019re starting with. Based on the results of the soil test<\/a>, apply fertilizer, lime, or other soil amendments. That should be sufficient for six to eight weeks.<\/p>
Choose the right type of seed:<\/strong> After the soil is ready, it\u2019s time to choose the right type of seed. Seed choice is paramount. This is a good time to check with your local Extension agent<\/a> and see which fescue cultivars are likely to thrive in your home lawn. <\/p>
Act during the right time of year: <\/strong>Late summer and early fall bring cooler temperatures and the most favorable conditions for cool-season grasses<\/a> such as fescues. This is the opposite of warm-season grasses, like St. Augustine or Bermudagrass, which have their peak growth during the warmer temperatures of summer. <\/p>
![\"Cool](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/rsz_1ls-cool-season-growth-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Juan Rodriguez<\/figcaption><\/figure> ![\"Warm](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/LS-warm-season-growth.png\")
Photo Credit: Juan Rodriguez<\/figcaption><\/figure> If you are in the transition zone:<\/strong> What grows best depends on your climate, but a large swath of the country is in the transition zone,<\/a> where the weather doesn\u2019t particularly suit either type. In the transition zone, home lawns tend to rely on cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, or a mixture.<\/p>
![\"Map](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/rsz_lawnstarter-overseeding-map_1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Juan Rodriguez<\/figcaption><\/figure> In the Midwest, overseeding is extremely common, Good says. Right along the line between cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses, Kansas likely sees more lawn renovation in the fall than anywhere in the country, he says.<\/p>
\u201cIt\u2019s on the hotline,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s a question we get all the time.\u201d<\/p>
Know your fescues:<\/strong> Fescue grass grows best in well-drained soils at air temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and comes in a number of different species:<\/p>
- Tall fescue<\/strong> is adapted to a wide range of soil and climatic conditions. It has a medium to coarse texture and tolerates higher temperatures, drought, and wear. It\u2019s good for full sun or lightly shaded areas.<\/li>
- Fine fescue<\/strong> is an umbrella term for other strains, like chewings, hard, and red fescues. They get their name from their narrower leaf blades. Fine fescues<\/a> do well in the shade and drought, but not warm temperatures.<\/li> <\/ul>
![\"Red](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/rsz_27905054331_c25a08c73e_k.jpg\")
Red fescue grass likes moist soil, especially when it is getting established. It does well in transition zone areas.
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin<\/a> \/ Flickr \/ CC BY 2.0<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>Note:<\/strong> If you have thin areas or bare patches on your lawn, using Kentucky 31 tall fescue for overseeding can be a good choice if you already have a K-31 lawn<\/em>. Stay away from this older cultivar if your lawn is seeded with a newer tall fescue cultivar. K-31 typically germinates best when the soil temperatures are between 50 F and 65 F. <\/p>
2. Choose High-Quality Seed<\/h3>
Not using high-quality seed is one of the top mistakes Good sees when homeowners overseed in the fall. \u201cIt costs more, but believe me, you\u2019re going to like the results a lot more,\u201d he says.<\/p>
For fescue blends in particular, he says to look at the weed or crop percentage in the seed. You want it to be zero. \u201cPeople will go with cheap seed and they have all these weeds come up,\u201d Good says.<\/p>
All the information you need to select the right grass is on the seed bag:<\/p>
![\"Grass](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/rsz_grass-seed-label_1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Tann<\/a> \/ Wikimedia Commons \/ CC BY 2.0<\/a> with text overlay<\/figcaption><\/figure> - Names of grass cultivars:<\/strong> These should be listed on the seed bag label. Make sure they\u2019re right for your lawn and climate.<\/li>
- Germination percentage:<\/strong> Higher rates mean more seeds successfully take root and grow. For tall fescue seed<\/a>, you need at least 85 percent, and it should be slightly higher for fine fescues.<\/li>
- Percentage of <\/strong>weed seeds<\/strong>:<\/strong> Choose very low weed seed levels, ideally less than 0.25 percent. You want to plant grass, not weeds.<\/li>
- Sell-by date:<\/strong> Fresher seed mixtures usually have higher germination rates. Choose seeds packaged for this year or next.<\/li> <\/ul>
Now that you\u2019ve invested in quality fescue seed, you\u2019re ready to start prepping the site.<\/p>
3. Prep the Overseeding Site<\/h3>
Mow<\/strong> the <\/strong>existing lawn<\/strong> short.<\/strong> Cut it to about 1.5 inches before overseeding, so the new seedlings can compete with the existing grass and weeds.<\/p>
A short cut also helps sunlight reach new seedlings and prevents seeds from getting stuck in the vegetation. Unlike most occasions, when mulching grass clippings<\/a> is good for your lawn, bag the clippings for this mow so they don\u2019t interfere.<\/p>
Thatch impedes growth from <\/strong>new seed<\/strong>.<\/strong> It is important to have less than a quarter-inch of thatch when overseeding. Seeds that get hung up in thatch<\/a> might not establish properly.<\/p>
If you have a thicker layer of thatch than that, use a tool such as a verticutter, power rake, or aerator to dethatch your lawn<\/a>. Good recommends a verticutter, which cuts vertical slits into the soil. \u201cOne of the most important things, when you\u2019re overseeding a lawn, is getting soil contact with the seed,\u201d he says.<\/p>
Power raking also removes thatch<\/strong>, and is something to consider when thatch passes the half-inch mark. But be warned: Power raking<\/a> pulls up a lot of material that will have to be gathered and discarded. <\/p>
An <\/strong>aerator<\/strong> is better for lesser thatch<\/strong>, say under a half-inch, and reducing soil compaction<\/a> in heavy soils. Aerators remove small cores of soil, improving water, nutrient, and oxygen movement into the ground.<\/p>
Adding topsoil could help.<\/strong> Some homeowners apply topsoil when overseeding. It provides some germination. But \u201cusing existing soil and verticutting<\/a> is a much better method,\u201d Good says.<\/p>
4. When the Time is Right, Apply Starter Fertilizer<\/h3>
You want to wait until the soil temperature falls to 50 degrees to 65 degrees Fahrenheit to get the best germination from your fescue seeds. That generally equates to days when air temperature consistently hits 60 to 75 degrees.<\/p>
At that point, apply starter fertilizer<\/a>. It is the only product other than seeds needed for seeding a lawn.<\/p>
Don\u2019t be wary about fertilizing at seeding, because those young seedlings will need the added push to quickly start germinating and establishing turf. The existing grass will get a boost, too.<\/p>
5. Plant Your Seeds<\/strong><\/h3>
![\"A](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/rsz_shutterstock_1757904407.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Shutterstock<\/a>
<\/figcaption><\/figure>Your yard is ready for overseeding<\/a> when:<\/p>
- The lawn is mowed and dethatched.<\/li>
- The fertilizer is in place.<\/li>
- The seedbed is moist. <\/li>
- The temperature is right. <\/li>
- The perfect seed blend is in hand.<\/li> <\/ul>
Use a drop-type grass seeder<\/strong> rather than applying by hand or using a rotary spreader. (These are better suited for fertilizer.) Be sure your spreader is set to apply the correct amount of seed.<\/p>
Be sure to use the right amount of seed.<\/strong> Knowing just how much seed to overseed is your key to success.
Overseeding requires about half the normal seeding rate. For overseeding tall fescue on bare soil, experts put that rate at 6 to 8 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet (something that can be double-checked; it should be listed on the bag). Cut that in half for overseeding, and you get 3 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet.<\/p>Water regularly<\/strong> to keep the seedbed moist and ensure rapid germination. Failing to keep the seedbed moist<\/a> is a common mistake when overseeding. \u201cPeople either water too much, which smothers the seed, or they don\u2019t water enough, so it doesn\u2019t come out,\u201d Good says.<\/p>
Begin with frequent, light irrigation<\/strong> and progress to deeper, more infrequent watering as the seedlings and their root system become established.<\/p>
Mulch might help.<\/strong> Spreading a light mulch<\/a> of hay will retain soil moisture and keep seedlings from drying out. The recommended rate is one bale of hay per 1,000 square feet, but be careful. Too much mulch cover will smother the seedlings.<\/p>
6. Care for the Young Grass<\/h3>
![\"Young](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/rsz_126269283014_b868542db8_k.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Tim Sackton<\/a> \/ Flickr \/ CC BY-SA 2.0<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure> Once that new fescue lawn comes up, you\u2019ve got to keep it up. And it\u2019s going to take some special lawn care practices.<\/p>
Prepare to nurse your new lawn for at least two months<\/a>. <\/p>
- Keep foot traffic off <\/strong>young seedlings for at least a month; they are easily injured.<\/li>
- Pull weeds by hand.<\/strong> All that tilling, fertilizing and watering that goes along with establishing new grass from seed also helps establish weeds. <\/li>
- The control of weeds, such as <\/strong>crabgrass<\/a>, can be a challenge<\/strong>, too, but broadleaf herbicides should not be applied until the lawn has been mowed three times.<\/li> <\/ul>
7. Mow the Right Way<\/h3>
![\"person](\"https:\/\/www.lawnstarter.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/pexels-magic-k-6728926-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure> It may be scary to mow a young lawn, but it is a vital part of the establishment. Proper mowing height<\/a> is crucial. Sufficient grass height allows the turf to mature before winter sets in and minimizes encroachment from weeds.<\/p>
Let fescue reach 4.5 inches, then mow it back to 3 inches. Allow those clippings to fall into the turf<\/a>, where they\u2019ll return nutrients to the soil. That alone can reduce the need for fertilizer by as much as 30 percent.<\/p>
Once you\u2019ve mowed that fall season lawn a few times, the next step is celebrating. You\u2019ve got a newly rejuvenated tall fescue lawn<\/a> that will tolerate cooler temperatures and stay thick and green longer.<\/p>
FAQs<\/h2>
When in the Fall Should I Overseed?<\/h3>
Look up your region\u2019s first frost date of fall, then plant 45 days before. This allows a one- to three-week germination period plus time for roots to become established before winter. Knowing when to overseed fescue is half the battle, so if you have the timing right, you\u2019re on the way to a healthy, rejuvenated lawn.<\/p>
Can you Overseed Fescue Without Aerating?<\/h3>
It is not a must that you aerate before overseeding fescue, but it will improve growth rates and make it grow thicker faster.<\/p>
Can you Just Sprinkle Grass Seed on the Lawn?<\/h3>
Yes, you can sprinkle grass seed on the lawn, but you can expect to have less contact between the seed and soil, leading to a lower germination rate. <\/p>
How Often to Overseed?<\/h3>
In most places, some form of overseeding along with aeration should be considered something to do every year.<\/p>
Call In The Pros<\/h2>
You don\u2019t have to wait to take care of your lawn. Overseeding is a simple DIY process that can address needs before they become expensive problems.<\/p>
Remember, overseeding will:<\/p>
- R<\/strong>ejuvenate<\/strong> thin or bare spots<\/li>
- F<\/strong>ight<\/strong> weeds<\/li>
- R<\/strong>einvigorate<\/strong> lawns<\/li>
- Touch-up<\/strong> areas worn out from constant mowing<\/li>
- E<\/strong>nhance<\/strong> the color of your lawn and make your green even greener<\/li>
- S<\/strong>trengthen<\/strong> the entire lawn without needing to start over \u200b<\/li> <\/ul>
If you\u2019d rather have someone else do the fall overseeding for you, contact one of our local lawn care professionals<\/a>. They\u2019ll do it all: mow, dethatch, fertilize, and even figure out how much grass seed for overseeding your lawn is necessary. You\u2019ll have a stronger cool-season lawn in no time.<\/p>
- F<\/strong>ight<\/strong> weeds<\/li>
- Pull weeds by hand.<\/strong> All that tilling, fertilizing and watering that goes along with establishing new grass from seed also helps establish weeds. <\/li>
- Keep foot traffic off <\/strong>young seedlings for at least a month; they are easily injured.<\/li>
- Germination percentage:<\/strong> Higher rates mean more seeds successfully take root and grow. For tall fescue seed<\/a>, you need at least 85 percent, and it should be slightly higher for fine fescues.<\/li>
- Fine fescue<\/strong> is an umbrella term for other strains, like chewings, hard, and red fescues. They get their name from their narrower leaf blades. Fine fescues<\/a> do well in the shade and drought, but not warm temperatures.<\/li> <\/ul>
- 2. Choose High-Quality Seed<\/a><\/li>
- How to Overseed in the Fall With Fescue<\/a>